Bike Albania: Shkoder, Shiroka & Theth in 5 Days as a solo female
In June 2025, I made a 5-Day solo bike trip around Shkoder and Shiroka, including a day trip into the Albanian Alps, to visit Theth.
Because I planned this trip last minute (booking my ticket at 00:10 a.m. to set foot on Albanian soil at 08:10 a.m.), I didn't really prepare for it. These five days were 'make up as you go'. It was also the first time I used Mindtrip AI, a travel-planning platform that has helped me out tremendously. It's like having your own travel agent to talk to on the spot!
This is my 5-Day itinerary. A short holiday break I will never forget!
Why visit Shkoder?
Shkoder: Where bikes rule the streets
Shkoder proudly wears the title of Albania’s biking city. The city is flat, compact, and filled with well-marked bike lanes, making it easy and safe to explore on two wheels. Locals of all ages cycle here daily. It feels natural to join in.
Whether you’re weaving through the old town or heading towards the lake and Shiroka, biking feels like the best and most affordable way to experience the city’s laid-back charm.
Main goal: Relax and enjoy the beauty of nature
My main goal for this 5 Day trip was relaxing, taking in the beauty and peace of the lake while also enjoying some city life in Shkoder. On day 2, I decided to squeeze in a visit to Theth for a day.
I love to share my itinerary and insights to inspire you or to help you make the most of your visit to this northern part of Albania. And yes, it's safe for a female traveler, and yes, I had the time of my life!
DAY 1 : Shkoder City & Cycling the Beautiful Lake Route to Shiroka
I arrived at Tirana Airport at 08:10 and headed to the bus area to catch the bus to Shkoder. The bus ride takes 2 hours and costs €10 - €13 (1000 LEK - 1300 LEK) but I ended up taking a shared taxi for €30.
For all the different ways to get to Shkoder, see my blogpost: How to get from Tirana airport to Shkoder.
RENT A BIKE IN SHKODER
Because I didn't do any research in advance, I asked the taxi driver to drop me off at a bike rental, near the bus station, where I could catch a bus back to Tirana airport on Friday when I return the bike.
He brought me to Biciklist Marku
(Marku Rent a Bike) in Rruga Edith Durham.
Marku, the owner, is super friendly and
helpful; he let me test ride the bike,
adjusted it and gave me his phone number.
In case anything went wrong, I could give him a call and he'd come help me out.
Mind you, he only speaks Albanian but
translation is never far: Google Translate, bystanders, ...
I paid €30 for 5 days for a solid quality bike!
HAVE LUNCH & STROLL AROUND RRUGA KOLE IDROMENO
Shkoder has so many options for lunch! I was very hungry and grabbed the first nice-looking restaurant I could find:
I had a delicious and budget-friendly lunch
at Genti (Bulevardi Skënderbeu).
The people of the restaurant were so
friendly! They let me charge my phone
and helped me find directions to
Rruga Kole Idromeno,
which was just around the corner.
I strolled a bit around the city,
looking at the shops and taking in
the relaxed, laid-back vibe of
this colourful city.
I then started cycling towards
the edge of the city to start
my bike ride to Shiroka.
Because of the heat, I made several stops in parks, under trees and to buy cold drinks.
The city is super easy to navigate and most streets have very good bike lanes.
SCENIC AND STUNNING BIKE RIDE TO SHIROKA
The easiest and most beautiful way to reach Buna's Bridge, to cross the Buna river, is Shetitorja e Molos. This is a walking path along the river, so you won't have to bike on the main road. The bike lane on the main road is not in good condition. Although the park and the walking path were closed due to construction works, everyone just used it.
There's a lot of shade here under the trees and a beautiful view of the river and the bridge.
After crossing the bridge,
you turn right and just keep following the lakeside.
There's a wonderful bike
lane and and after every
bend in the road
the view of the lake
becomes more beautiful and spectacular.
In case of needing a rest
or a cool drink, there
are many cafés, bars and restaurants along the way.
After enjoying a wonderful meal near the lakeside, I headed up to my guesthouse, 'Iart Residence'. This was far up the hill, where I miscalculated the physical effort to get there with my bike. But I was rewarded with a spectacular view over the lake from the terrace of the guesthouse!
DAY 2 : Spending the day in Shiroka
Day 2 was dedicated to rest, reading, strolling, biking and swimming.
In the morning I enjoyed strolling around the lake shore, having a cool drink, checking out possible boat tours and waterbiking on the lake.
SWIM AND SUP ON SHKODER LAKE
After some rest, I biked up to Drini Times just outside the center of Shiroka. Drini Times is a Water Sports & Birdwatching Center. They offer kayak rentals, stand-up paddleboarding, and self-guided kayaktours. The center is located near a small beach area. They have refreshing drinks, a small changing room and toilets.
I decided to spend the afternoon on the pebbled beach, sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying some stand-up paddling on the lake. While spending time on the beach, I had some wonderful chats with other tourists and locals.
DINER AT THE LAKE SIDE
In the early evening, I biked to Stralaus Freudenberg and the sunken military ship area. I sat down at Rent a Bike Shiroka, which is also a little bar and restaurant near the lake. This was my absolute favorite place near the lake. The view is spectacular, and in contrast to the bars in the center of Shiroka, they play no music here. So you can just sit and enjoy the sounds of nature.
VISITING STRALAUS FREUDENBERG
After a delicious meal, I visited Stralaus Freudenberg, the ruins of a hotel never
finished, to enjoy breathtaking views
of the lake, during the golden hour.
Afterwards, Robby, the owner of the Bike Rental - who had lived in Belgium for over 20 years and spoke Dutch fluently - offered to drive me and my bike back to my guesthouse up the hill. I was so grateful for this gesture because I was exhausted!
I ended the day with a refreshing dip in the guesthouse's swimming pool and enjoyed the lake view at night from my terrace.
DAY 3 : Rozafa Castle and Camping Legjenda
On day three, I spent more time at the lakeside and in the afternoon, I biked to Camping Lejenda. I mainly chose this accommodation because upon calling, they offered to arrange a private taxi to Theth for €15 on Thursday. I know the bus only costs €12 but I preferred the luxury of being picked up at the camping site and being able to stop wherever on the way, for toilet breaks...
Camping Lejenda is located at the foot of Rozafa Castle, in a green and peaceful spot just outside Shkodër. The place feels quiet and full of trees, a bit like camping in someone’s big garden. The shade was very welcome!
You can stay in a tent, a van, in a hotel room or one of the small bungalows. There’s a nice pool to swim and relax, and a cosy restaurant and bar with colourful decorations and a creative touch. The atmosphere is super relaxed, with a slightly hippie vibe.
I stayed in a hotel room because all the small bungalows were booked. The room was not so cosy or comfortable. The room was small with only one main big light, so no night lamp or dimmed light for the night and the bed wasn't comfortable at all. For the rest, I loved the camping site!
After checking in, I visited the Rosafa castle. Visiting Rozafa Castle was a bit of a climb — the path goes steeply uphill, especially in the sun, but it’s worth it. From the top you get amazing views over Shkodër, the lake, and the rivers winding through the valley.
The old stone walls and ruins have a quiet, timeless feeling, and there is a small museums inside where you can learn about the legends and history.
Rosafa castle is a popular place to visit at sunset. It’s the kind of place where you just sit for a while and watch the light change over the mountains.
DAY 4 : Theth
At 06:50 a.m., I picked up my pre-packed breakfast at the bar of Camping Legjenda and at 07:00 a.m. I got picked up by a taxi driver for the 2-hour, breathtaking drive up to the mountain village Theth.
Although the taxi driver did not speak English, he made many stops along the way to have a coffee and to take pictures of the breathtaking views.
A day in Theth feels like stepping into another world, surrounded by high mountains.
The drop-off point is just a dirt road, kind of a meeting place with a few stalls and jeeps around. It has this easy, outdoor vibe, like a surfer’s spot but for mountain lovers and trekkers. There is a little cafe and some toilets. The village itself is a little tucked away. From the bridge, entering Theth you have to walk a bit to reach the well-known church, passing little paths and wooden fences, with the mountains all around you. It's a peaceful town, with a few guesthouses serving coffee and homemade food.
HIKING
Even on a one-day visit, you make short hikes. You can hike to the Blue Eye, a bright turquoise pool hidden in the rocks, or walk to the Grunas waterfall, which is an easy, short and beautiful trail.
SWIMMING
Don't forget your swimsuit because even if you don't do the hike to the Blue Eye, where you can enjoy the ice cold mountain water, you can also bath and swim in the river at the drop off point, near the bridge. This is where I spent a few hours reading and enjoying the ice cold water.
ADVENTURE
Theth now has it's own zip line. The zip line in Theth starts right from the village. From the little office, a van takes you up to the highest point on the hill, where the ride begins. After getting your harness on and a quick safety check and talk, you glide down a 1.2-kilometre cable over the river and the valley below. It’s not long, just a bit over a minute, but the views are amazing, and it’s such a fun way to see the landscape from above.
Essentially, it gives you a quick, thrilling descent from the high point down into the heart of Theth.
NOT WHAT I EXPECTED
Despite the peaceful atmosphere and the beautiful nature, Theth wasn’t really what I expected, and I felt a bit disappointed. When I visited, there was a wild mix of construction going on — holiday houses in all kinds of styles popping up everywhere. It felt more like walking into a building site than into a mountain village. But about ten days after my visit, the government arrived with bulldozers and tore down more than thirty unlicensed guesthouses. I have no idea what Theth looks like now.
Despite the disappointment, I did really enjoy my day in Theth!
DAY 5 : Shkoder : Mesi Bridge, enjoying the city and return to the airport
For my last day, I planned to bike to the Mesi Bridge. This 18th-century Ottoman stone bridge stretches over the Kir River, about 5 km from the city, with 13 uneven stone arches that give it a really charming, timeless look. Built around 1770 by the local pasha, Kara Mahmud Bushati, it originally connected Shkodër with the Drisht Castle area.
Unfortunattely, I I got a bit of heatstroke and felt sicks so I stayed a little longer on the campsite. The owner of Camping Legjenda was so kind to arrange a taxi for me. The very kind Albanian man drove me to the bike rental to return the bike and from there we took of to the airport. The Mesi Bridge and more of the city of Skhoder will be on my return-list!
HEY, I’M YVI…
...and I lost my heart in Albania in 2023. Albania feels like a second skin because it represents so many aspects that I love about life, nature, and humanity.
During my visits to Albania, I have witnessed the kindness, generosity, and helpfulness of the Albanian people many times and in many ways. With this blog, I hope to inspire others to visit this wonderful country and support local businesses, in particularly.
I hold a strong hope that with upcoming tourism, Albania will be able to keep its cultural and authentic feel, and that mainly the local population can benefit from the economic benefits of tourism. I strongly believe that we can all contribute to this with the choices we make while visiting this wonderful country.
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